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Blois, View from City Hall  


Loire is the longest river in France, runing from Mont-Gerbier-de-Jonc (Southern France) to Nantes estuary over the French Atlantic coast, along over 1000km (>640 Miles). The Loire river runs through several historic cities such as Olréans, Blois, Amboise, Tours and Nantes.
This region is populated by large châteaux, most of which are historic monuments today. These châteaux have recognized prestige from its characteristic wines with controlled denomination of origin. The Val de Loire (Loire Valley) adds classy touches ready to be enjoyed. You can take advantage of these pleassures regardless if you treat yourself with a fine dinner at a local restaurant or if you decide to enjoy a traditional goat chese, cured ham, local fruit preserves or any other delicatessens available in the many local stores and markets for a pic-nic at any of the rest areas you can find along the road.
For bicycle lovers, this is a paradise for riders since the Loire valley offers almost no terrain challenges and most of its topography is flat. Riding along the river bank trails, crossing small bridges, and passing by flower plantations makes this region a relaxed but dazzling experience. (Read tips section below)

 

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Despite our quick visit through this region during our trip to the Pyrénées Atlantiques, we got just a glimpse of what this region has to offer to locals as well as visitors. Rest assured that you can spend a whole month in this central region of France an still you would not see it all. We can simply define Le Val de Loire as an informal and yet classy experience filled with all the characteristics that define a good experience in France.

 

Château de Chenonceau

The most visited château in France after Versalles

In 1430 proprietor Jean Marques re-built his castle and fortified mill after the original was torched down in 1411 as a punishment for sedition.  His heir, Pierre Marques, sold the property to the Chamberlain for King Charles VIII of France, Thomas Bohier, in 1513.   Bohier's ambition for his new project was to build a structure over the river Cher, which led way to the demolition of Marques' Castle leaving only the mill tower intact. Today called Marques' Tower.

Today we can see the old footprint of the original castle that emerges as an ample leveled terrace in front of Chenonceau main entrance.  In 1547 the château was offered as a gift from King Henry II to his mistress, Diane de Poitier, until years later Catherine de' Medici expelled Diane, forcing her to exchange the property by another less appealing (Château Chaumont).

Chenonceau had passed from crown to crown, nobles and afluent characters in the French society. It even played an important role during The Enlightenment years, hosting entertainment and social events for Voltaire, Rousseau, and Montesquieu among others.

It also survived to French Revolution, when most aristocratic properties where demolished and destroyed, but Madame Dupin (proprietor back then) saved the castle from its destruction, convincing the guards of the new republic of its valuable utilization as a bridge, the only one in many miles. Popular tradition tells that the original name of the castle was Chenonceaux, but renamed after this event to Chenonceau, as it is known today.

During World War I its main gallery was transformed into a hospital. Chenonceau was also a very strategic place. The river separated Nazzi occupied France and unoccupied France controlled by L'État Française de Vichy (from 1940-1944). The château was the only bridge linking both banks making this a very important location.


Our Best Lodging Experience in Val de Loire

1- La Borde (Danze,Loire-et-Cher)

After visiting Chartres, we followed the N-10 road with the intent to drive deeper into this region. Around 5pm (as usual) we needed to find a place to stay. Using our "Gites-de-Frace" guide, we found La Borde, nearby the town of Danze. We called to check for availability and directions first and then we drove in direction of our destination. Finding the entrance was no challenge at all, even at night you can easily get thereit following directions.

La Borde has a quarter mile dirt road driveway into the woods. Once you get to the end, this petit-chateau emerges in the clear leaving the thick woods behind. Right at your arrival, you will sense the most traditional and authentic local place filled with details of good taste and the right ambience to guarantee your stay. It has a comfortable swimming pool inside a greenhouse and an extensive land that belongs to this property. All these ammenities offer a gorgeous country view.

The inside is everything but a country house with unmistakable authentic French style. Breakfast is served in the grand salon, carefuly presented with typical french toasts, fruits, french coffee and fresh cheese.

If we had to define La Borde, we would say that it is the perfect balance between a country location and the glamour of an authentic French petit-château at a very convenient price(*)

IMPORTANT: As with many of the Chambre d'Hotes, this place accepts payments only in cash. So be aware and make sure to get cash before you go. Personally I suggest to use your debit card at any ATM in France, (as well in Spain) , per law, banks cannot surcharge your transactions!... the fee is up to your Bank at home.


2- Moulin de l'Aumônier (Beaulieu-Lés-Loches, Indre-et-Loire)

One cozy, simple, neat, comfortable and well presented Gîte de France (Bed and Breakfast) is the Mouline de l'Armonier. We had an enjoyable experience with very good local style breakfast, mostly prepared with home made mermelades and local organic cheeses.

The house is located in one branch of the river Indre a few kilometers from the center of Loche. It was constructed by monks from the Benedictine Abby of Beaulieu-Lès-Loches in 1492. The first miller was a Templar brother from the order of Beaulieu. Later, the Moulin de l'Aumônier owns its name to the fact that his owner had to pay taxes to abby's chaplain. This mill kept working as a flour mill until 1962.

Loches is a town to stay over and discover it during the day and night. So our recommendation is to arrive in the evening, walk the lit streets, spend the night and then enjoy the morning rush as locals shop in the market.

TIP: Bycicle ride along Loire bank
Click to larger view

Ciclying is a very French tradition, and the Loire Valley, in particular, is the ideal scenario for taking a different approach to your vacation. No steep roads, wonderful places and views that take you closer to nature, and the opportunity to live the French tradition with locals.

With the right alloted time, it is fun and easy to plan a biking route and make reservations to stay in places registered in Gîtes de France.

Otherwise, for an extra fee, there are several companies offering a full cycling tour that goes from the one day through a whole week.

TIP: Gites de France Guides
Gites de France Directory

Do not forget to visit a Tourist Information post and ask for the Gîtes de France guide that covers the intended area.

It will give you a great opportunity to select the most suitable destinations whether you want to spend one night or a many days to live the French country life.

These guides have been one of the "secrets" that give us enough freedom to go around, drive, mingle and discover.