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View of Dordogne River from the Domme's cliff  


When preparing a trip to France, it is very difficult to decide which region you will like best. But certainly between those top choices we would put the Dordogne in the beautiful Aquitane region. It takes its name from the homonymous river with more than 500Km (~312 Miles) in length.
What captivated us in that region was the large number of medieval small towns that are extremely well preserved.

While walking through those towns you can imagine without much effort how they were in old times. But make no mistake, despite the centuries that many of those might celebrate, they are still full of activities, events and attractions for locals and the courious tourist.

We had covered only a small sector of Dordogne, more precisely the part of "Perigord Noir" (the Black Perigord) as the locals call this region. Despite being just one part of the larger Dordogne, this section has lots of amazing places and traditions to offer. If you take the chance, you will not regret the time you will spend within the walls of these medieval jewells in the Dordogne.

In this chapter of AGROTRAVELS, we include:

(*) Note to our Readers: Agrotravels only posts those places that, to our standards and criteria, meet our high expectations in comfort, convenience, environment, and style.
Most importantly, we had stayed in those places to give first hand testimonial about our experience.


Our Itinerary

Our itinerary in Dordogne started at Cieurac, a location close to where we stayed in L'Artisienne Bed and Breakfast (see Lodging Section). We then drove to BBeynac-et-Cazenac passing through Domme and La Roque-Gageac to continue to Sarlat-la-Canéda. Here you can see our itinerary and our major stops. Below the map section you will find our comments and pictures of the towns that you should not miss in your trip to Dordogne (Le Perigord).

Just so you, we did this itinerary in one day and spent about two hours in Dome, three in Sarlat and about one hour in the other towns. Times may differ depending on your pace and thirst!

The following sections will make reference to the green marks (A, B, C, etc.) in the map for your benefit.


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A Domme

Domme is one of the most beatiful towns in the Dordogne valley. Yes, you will tell us we say the same thing about every place we visit, but in fact we have to recognize that every town we had mentioned so far has its own personality, hence it makes them unique in its own way.

Domme is not a big town, but it's big in charm. It's a great place where visitors can sit in one of the local terraces and enjoy a glass of local wine, (or cold beer if you prefer) and discover the well preserved medieval architecture. What makes it so interesting is that you will hardly see a building that reminds you of our times.

One of the most impressive features in Domme is the astounding view of the valley from the town's cliff, where you can appreciate the landscape like no other place in Dordogne. Note that the banner of this page shows a panoramic view from this spot.

If you like the outdoors / pic-nic lunch, just grab your favorite red wine to go with a regional "fromage et saucisson", and an exquisite real French baguette. By the way, if you are from the States, you will find the local bread is very tasteful. And as a final touch, if you add local "Terrine de Cochon" and black olives, you will get a complete list for an unforgettable outdoor lunch.

A La Roque-Gageac

If you keep driving on road D703, the geography takes an impressive shape with those characteristic rocky cliffs that we have described earlier in this page, but this time you have the view from ground level.

Due to the curves and the layout of the terrain, you surprisingly find La Roque-Cageac . This town emerges in a narrow space that is left between the cliffs and the river bank.  Above in the rocks there is one of the most impressive and well preserved Troglodyte Fortresses in all of France.

Most of the actual contruction seem to be resting their backs on the cliff's rocks, however there are narrow internal pedestrian passages that will connect all corners in the small town and the prehistoric fortress entrance. We advise you to go for a stroll there as it is a place that it's worth seeing in detail. We were particularly surprised to see the many palms and tropical plants in those walkways, that for a moment we thought we were back Florida in the States!

D Beynac-et-Cazenac

Interesting so far, right? You can continue a little bit longer on our chosen road D703. If you keep driving another 5 minutes heading west from La Roque-Gageac you will arrive to Beynac-et-Cazenac.

In our case we intended to visit the "Château de Beynac", so we arrived and parked in a conveneint small parking lot next to the road.

We walked in the town through what appeared to be the Main Street. Despite being September, there were few visitors. We arrived around 2:00pm (French custom is have lunch from 1pm to 2pm). There was nobody in the streets, well yes, we crossed path with two or three people at most. That moment was very magical for my pictures. Full appreciation of town's physiognomy, every detail, every corner. A real jewell of a medieval testimonial of old times and history. We kept walking up the hill... to the Château.

There are several panoramic points on the way up, where you can sit and catch a breath while you can admire the amazing view from the town's hills. The only dissapointment was that we reached the Château and... No, it was closed! So, we cannot give you too many details about the Château, no more than the few pictures taken from outside. That was the negative side of going at that time of the -September 28th-. It looks like the Château might be closed before the end of September. Anyhow, the opening hours of this Château is normally from 10:00AM-6:30PM during season. But don't worry, there are several Artist Attelier to appreciate local art.

A Sarlat-la-Canéda

Oh Sarlat!, Speaking about going back in time, this town is almost identical as you could see it in the old artwork representing the place in its emerging days in the 14th century. This town started to growth when houses were built around the Carolingian abbey way before that time, and they're still preserved..

We parked in one of those few parking lots available on Boulevard Henri-Arlet (D704). We recommend you stay in Sarlat during your trip, but if you have just a few hours to look around (as we had), then we recommend you visit the area delimited by the three boulevards (Nessmann, Henri Arlet and Eugène le Roy/Voltaire).

It would be unfair if we tell you the most beautiful place in Sarlat, since there are so many interconnected passages that go through buildings, and internal patios. One of the most impressive structures we have seen are the two massive black doors of the Sainte-Marie church about 100 feet (30 mts) tall !!.

If we think in typical regional food, Pâtés, Foie Gras and truffles are in order. Iin fact accross the whole town there are many places where you can buy regional articles, and these are offered in so many variations that it is hard to see in the other towns of the region. Also it is one of the most important economic activities in the area. If you have the chance, check out the town on market days (Wednesday mornings and Sunday all day every week) as you will be surprised to see so many variations of similar products, but with the taste and presentation that only locals can give to their food articles in exhibition.

While walking through Sarlat's streets, pay attention to every entranc, that might lead you to other streets or one of the thousand hidden places and passages. Sarlat, one place to stay and appreciate it day and night... Do not miss it.

Lodging: "L'Artisienne" - Our Top Recommendation in Perigord Noir

We are convinced that one of the best things in agro-tourism is the variety of good places to spend the nigh. Different styles, different features, and everyone of them with a certain personality reflecting its owner's taste. At the end, it all comes down to you personal taste and needs,bBut every Bed & Breakfast has in common the dedication of its owners to their guests that makes them so successful and requested.

Sarlat
Cecilia(Agrotravels), Corinne (L'Artisienne) and "Max"

In that sense we would like to recommend L'Artisienne - Chambres et Table d'Hôtes of Bernard and Corinne, located in Le Roc. We initially planned to stay one night, but we ended up staying two nights before we continued our journey south. Bernard and Corinne will make you feel at home at the time you arrive. Every evening, if you choose to participate, is a social event. The aperitive before dinner where you can socialize with other guests and have the opportunity to exchange experiences of the day and where to go next day.

Dinner is optional, but we would suggest to give yourself a treat and stay to share dinner with other guests and appreciate Bernard's exquisite cuisine. At the first byte, you will notice that this is no ordinary cooking. You will be tasting the result of years of his background as a Chef in London. Every day you can have a different recipe.

Bernard and Corinne share the large table with their guests at the comfortable dinning room located on the first floor, allowing for pleassant moments that give you the feeling of being at home away from home. It has been a few years since we stayed at L'Artesienne and we still talk about it. We would go back without hestitation. Do not miss it. By the way, large dogs are welcome...!

Note: We made an unusual mistake. We did not take pictures of this place...!! it just happened that we were so inmersed in the social activity that we forgot about pictures! Just go to their website, you will find good pictures and directions about how to get there.

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Dordogne

TIP: Gites de France Guides

Do not forget to visit a Tourist Information post and ask for the Gîtes de France guide that covers the intended area.

It will give you a great opportunity to select the most suitable destinations whether you want to spend one night or a many days to live the French country life.

These guides have been one of the "secrets" that give us enough freedom to go around, drive, mingle and discover.